Backpacking the Colorado Rockies

My happy place isn't really just a specific physical location, but rather an idea about being in places that remain wild and untamed. There is no better way to experience the full force of mother nature’s power to inspire than by throwing on a backpack and setting foot into the wilderness, away from all the world’s distractions.

I sprung upon a last minute invitation to go backpacking in the Colorado Rockies with my buddy, Kyle. My best friend, Brook joined us on our adventure, excited to be introduced to the world of backpacking. The Four Pass Loop in Maroon Bells-Snowmass Wilderness area is just outside of Aspen, Colorado. With beautiful red rocks towering over Maroon Lake, this location has been the most photographed spot in Colorado and rated among the most beautiful backpacking trails in the United States.

FOUR PASS LOOP- STATS AND ROUTE
• Total Distance: 26.6 mi.
(Don’t let the distance fool you)
• Total Elevation Gain: 7,700 ft
• The four passes-
- West Maroon Pass (12,590 ft)
- Frigid Air Pass (12,415 ft)
- Trail Rider Pass (12,420 ft)
- Buckskin Pass (12,500 ft)

We kicked off our backpacking adventure with a midnight start, struggling to find the trailhead to begin with. I knew this was going to be an insanely steep hike and I needed to pack light. But the photographer in me could not resist carrying the bulky DSLR camera and zoom lens I had. Once we were on the trail, there was no turning back. I could already feel all 41 pounds in my backpack slowing me down. Not accustomed to backpacking in higher altitude makes it more difficult than it already is. We pitched our tents in complete darkness at Crater Lake around 2:00 am and snuck in our sleeping bags hoping for a good night’s sleep before the insane climb to the West Maroon Pass.

Next morning, we woke up to spectacular views of the lake, gazing at the faint sunlight highlighting the rocky mountains that surrounded the lake. As we sat by our tent having breakfast, a moose casually walked by our campsite looking at us as though it was welcoming us to its beautiful home. Sleep deprived, we packed our backpacks, gathered our strength and headed towards the first pass. On one side we saw gray skies and unforgiving mountains straight out of the ‘Lord of the Rings’ scene, and on the other side we saw clear skies, lush green meadows and shimmering blue lakes.

I believe it’s important to thoroughly prepare and research before you begin any wilderness backpacking adventure, even if you’re the spontaneous type (type 7 on the enneagram). We had packed a pair of extra footwear because I’d read that there were some river crossings. The rule of thumb for preventing hypothermia is “keep your ears, feet and hands warm.” I found two sticks along the way which I used as hiking poles throughout the trek, without which I don’t think I would have been able to complete the trail in time.

West Maroon Pass (12,590 ft)
Snow can linger above tree line until late summer. After a couple of hours of backpacking, we took a break and goofed around, sliding in the snow and throwing snowballs at each other. The climb up to the West Maroon Pass was intense, yet breathtaking. Kyle was way ahead of us and he decided to set up camp at the second pass and wait for us that evening.

Afternoon thunderstorms are common in the Rockies. Temperature can suddenly drop even in summer, added with strong winds and heavy rains which can swoop through the valley without notice. As me and Brook started descending from West Maroon Pass, we saw dark clouds heading our way. With seconds to spare and trying our best to avoid being cold and wet, we took shelter over a rock and quickly made a roof over our heads by sticking hiking poles into our tent’s rain-fly. Fifteen minutes later, the storm had rolled through and it was back to clear blue skies as if nothing happened.

Frigid Air Pass (12,415 ft)
The trail leveled out and we were soon walking through meadows full of colorful wildflowers. We could not believe we were still in Colorado. The picturesque landscape made me feel like I was hiking through the rolling meadows of Val di Funes, in the Dolomite region of Italy. Lost in the beauty of this place, we would’ve actually been lost if Brook hadn’t stumbled upon a marking in the mud which looked somewhat like an arrow with Kyle’s name scribbled on it, leading us towards the correct trail. After hiking a mile, we could spot Kyle’s tent on the summit, but we knew we couldn’t make it to the top before dark. As the sun began to go down, we came across a pretty patch of wild sunflowers and we instantly knew this is where we were camping that night.

After watching the sunrise next morning, I slept-in a little more while Brook wrote her journal. My legs were still sore from last night, but I was determined to complete the trail. The hike to the top of Frigid pass was the most difficult. From here, it was a 7-mile hike to Trail Rider Pass. The switchbacks down Frigid Air Pass were steep and we landed in a meadow surrounded by beautiful mountains. The trail continued down gradually switching between meadows and forests. While another thunderstorm passed through, we waited out the rain in the forest and cooked some ramen (noodles).

Trail Rider Pass (12,420 ft)
The incline started with dense forest which was probably blown to bits by a hurricane. Steep switchbacks continued all the way to the ridge- Steep as in climbing 1200-feet-in-mile steep. We hiked slow and steady with very little conversation (because let’s save the oxygen for breathing). When we reached the next stream crossing, we stopped to check our map so we could get an idea about our pace. We realized that we had not made much progress. At this rate we could not make it to the last bus out to civilization next day, and would miss our flight back home. We really needed to push ourselves to make up time. Brook was faster going uphill and I was faster going downhill, so we both motivated each other to keep a fast pace. The trail continued winding through the aspen forest and eventually emerged to a false pass.

The red mudstone cliffs are weak and can crumble any time, making these some of the deadliest mountains in Colorado. As I reached the top of Trail Raider Pass, I heard a loud sound as though a lighting had struck the mountain and torn it apart. I looked down and saw a portion of the cliff-tower crumble and fall into the valley below.

A through hiker going the other way passed along Kyle’s message to us informing that our friend Kyle would be camping at Snowmass lake that night. We could see Snowmass Lake from the summit, but we were far from making it to the lake before sunset. Me and Brook set up camp half-way down the mountain at a pretty spot from where we got a great view of the lake. We heard another cliff tower break and fall into the valley and feared one could fall over us in the middle of the night.

Buckskin Pass (12,500)
We had to tear ourselves away from the morning views of Snowmass Mountain reflected in Snowmass Lake to conquer our final pass and catch the last bus back to Aspen. The first section of trail was rocky, steep and caked in snow. One wrong move could have been an invitation to death. We moved slowly and cautiously, rubbing our feet across the narrow icy trail praying desperately that we don’t slip and die.

During these difficult passes I tried to fill my head with words of encouragement rather than doubt. I thought about how blessed I was to be surrounded by beautiful scenery and spending time with my favorite people, despite my legs and lungs being on fire. I thought about treating myself with some delicious Indian food when I make it back to civilization. The power of positive thinking is strong. It really helped push me up those passes.

All good things come to an end. We eventually made it back to the trailhead with 15 minutes to spare before the last bus left for the day. There were no signs of Kyle and we assumed he was already back to Aspen. As soon as I got cell reception on the way, I called Kyle. He was surprised to get my call, pretty confident that we were going to be stuck in the mountains another night, and he was already planning to get a hotel for himself for the night. He picked us up at the Highlands bus station, and we were ready for the post-hike burger and some delicious Indian food.

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